When to plant Canterbury Bells in Temperate Australia

Temperate zone — applies to Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Newcastle and similar areas. Growing elsewhere? Cool · Subtropical · Tropical · Arid.

Raise Canterbury bells as seedlings and transplant, sowing from February to June in autumn and early winter. Press the fine seed onto the surface no more than 3 mm deep, as it needs light to germinate, and expect a slow, uneven strike of 7–28 days. This hardy biennial is patient: allow 140–160 days to flowering, with plants often building a leafy rosette in the first season before sending up tall, bell-hung spires the next. Transplant seedlings 30 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart. In temperate gardens around Melbourne and Adelaide, the cool autumn sowing suits its need for a chilly spell to flower well.

Sowing calendar — temperate zone

Green months are your sowing window: February to June.

Growing notes

Canterbury bells is a traditional cottage-garden biennial, and the key to it is patience and correct sowing. Surface-sow the tiny seed and only just cover it, since it needs light to germinate; burying it too deep is the most common reason for a no-show. Germination is slow and erratic over 7–28 days, so keep the trays evenly moist and don't give up early. Raise them as seedlings, then transplant once they are sturdy.

As a biennial, it usually spends its first season as a leafy rosette and flowers the following spring, having sat through winter. In temperate Melbourne and Adelaide the cool season provides the chill it needs to set flower buds well; in the mildest coastal spots it may flower less freely for want of cold. Grow it in full sun to light shade on rich, moist, free-draining soil.

The main failure mode in a wet temperate winter is crown rot, where the rosette sits in cold, soggy soil and collapses. Plant into raised, well-drained ground and avoid overhead watering in winter. When the tall flower spires appear, they can topple in wind or rain, so stake them early. Deadhead spent spires to prolong the display, and leave one or two to set seed if you want self-sown plants for future years.

Canterbury Bells at a glance

Common questions

Why won't my Canterbury bells seeds germinate?

The most common cause is burying the seed too deep. Canterbury bells needs light to germinate, so surface-sow and only just cover it, no more than 3 mm. Keep it evenly moist and be patient, as germination is slow and uneven over 7–28 days.

Are Canterbury bells annual or biennial?

They are biennial, usually forming a leafy rosette in the first season and flowering the following spring after a cool winter. Sow in autumn from February to June so plants establish before winter. Allow 140–160 days from sowing to flowering.

Do Canterbury bells need cold to flower?

They flower best after a cool winter spell, which the temperate seasons around Melbourne and Adelaide readily provide. In the mildest frost-free coastal spots they may flower less freely. An autumn sowing sets them up to receive this chill naturally.

How do I stop Canterbury bells rotting in winter?

Crown rot happens when the rosette sits in cold, soggy soil. Plant into raised, free-draining ground and avoid overhead watering through winter. Good drainage is the single most important factor in getting them through to spring flowering.

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